The Black Diamond Camalot One Color continues to be a benchmark for trad climbing protection, earning its spot as the “Best Overall” cam in its category. It’s a reliable and highly refined tool that’s trusted by climbers of all levels. Known for its affordability, durability, and excellent performance, this cam effortlessly balances price with premium features. Whether you’re piecing together your first trad rack or upgrading to a more reliable kit, the Camalot remains a top-tier choice for all-around use.

Key Features

• Dual-Axle Design: Offers a wide expansion range, maximizing placement options on mixed routes. This design ensures better overlap between sizes, providing more security in tricky cracks.
• Optimized Stem Flexibility: Minimizes walking after placement, even in less-than-ideal conditions. The flexible stem adapts well to irregular rock geometry.
• Thumb Loop and Ergonomic Trigger: Enhances ease of placement and retrieval. The trigger feels smooth and intuitive, allowing for one-handed operation even in tight spots.
• Color-Coded Sizing System: Clear color coordination makes gear selection efficient. No more fumbling through the rack trying to find the right size mid-pitch.
• Heat-Treated Cam Lobes: Increases the lifespan of the cam and ensures efficient holding power on various rock types, from sandstone to granite.

Why Did We Pick It

The Black Diamond Camalot One Color stands out as the ultimate all-around performer, landing high marks across key categories like range expansion, holding power, and durability. Its Range Expansion (9/10) score, bolstered by the dual-axle design, sets it apart as an indispensable piece of gear for climbers aiming to tackle a diverse array of rock types and crack sizes. Whether you’re on splitter sandstone or juggy granite, the Camalot’s versatility shines through. Add in its Holding Power (8/10), and you’ve got a cam that inspires trust on every placement, giving climbers peace of mind when pushing their limits.

Durability is another reason we ranked the Camalot so highly. With a Durability score of 7/10, this cam is built with high-quality materials to withstand season after season of abuse. Testing proved that even after repeated placements and long runouts, the Camalot’s lobes retained their bite, and the stem resisted signs of fatigue or wear. This kind of longevity means you’re investing in a product that keeps delivering, route after route.

Ease of placement is another standout feature, coming in at 7/10. Thanks to its ergonomic trigger design and smooth action, the Camalot excels in real-world scenarios requiring precision placements in awkward or strenuous stances. During testing, it performed admirably on long trad routes where efficiency was crucial. Climbers relying on quick, accurate placements to conserve energy will appreciate how seamlessly this cam integrates into their gear setup.

Who It’s For

The Wild Country Friend Cam Set hits the sweet spot of affordability, quality, and performance, making it an excellent choice for climbers seeking value without compromise. This iconic product from Wild Country delivers reliable performance for trad climbers who demand functional, durable gear at a more accessible price point. Featuring a dual-axle design, ergonomic triggers, and lightweight construction, it’s a well-rounded cam that doesn’t break the bank. While it may not boast the full-blown refinement of pricier options, the Wild Country Friend remains a trusted ally, perfect for climbers on a budget who want durable and effective protection.

Key Features

• Dual-Axle Design: Improves range and stability, giving climbers added versatility for marginal placements and awkward cracks.
• Ergonomic Thumb Loop and Trigger: Enhances ease of placement, even with gloves on or in stressful situations, making it beginner-friendly.
• Single-Stem Build: Balanced flexibility allows for confident placements without excessive wobble or potential walking.
• Durable Construction: Forged lobes and strong cables ensure long-term use, even when subjected to varied rock types like sandstone or granite.
• Color-Coded Sizing: Makes size identification quick and straightforward, a crucial feature when fumbling for gear mid-route.

Why Did We Pick It

We chose the Wild Country Friend Cam Set as the Best Budget Pick because it delivers high-rated performance metrics without the high price tag. Scoring an impressive 9 in Holding Power on our testing chart, this cam provides exceptional confidence in the field. Whether you’re navigating splitter sandstone cracks or irregular placements, the lobes bite effectively, ensuring solid protection when you need it most. Its 8 in Durability reflects Wild Country’s trusted craftsmanship, meaning these cams can survive repeated abuse on the rock, making them ideal for those newly building their rack on a budget.

Another reason for selection lies in its robust yet approachable performance. With a Range Expansion score of 7, the Friends aren’t as expansive as pricier models like Totem Cams or Camalots, but for the price point, the range is still respectable. Factor in the ergonomic thumb loops and color-coded sizing, and you’ll quickly see how these cams cater to climbers who want simplicity without performance sacrifice. Scoring 87 in Weight, the Wild Country Friend Set is slightly heavier than some top-tier cams, but its durability adds reassurance when hauling a rack through gnarly routes. Finally, the Ease of Placement score of 78 confirms that these cams aren’t just affordable—they’re functional for all experience levels, from beginners to seasoned dirtbags alike.

Arguably, one of these cams’ most notable qualities is how they perform in real-world scenarios. During field testing, we found the Friends especially dependable in various crack systems common in granite-heavy areas. Their dual-axle mechanism shines when working with parallel cracks, offering the stability needed for bomber placements. For the price, these cams reliably perform where others might falter, solidifying their spot in the kit of anyone seeking value-first gear with dependable features.

Who Its For

The Metolius Ultralight Master Cam Purple stands out among climbing gear as a reliable and affordable camming device, ideal for those just starting to build their trad rack. Its combination of lightweight construction, precise engineering, and competitive pricing makes it a standout for beginners looking to balance quality with budget. While it may not offer the highest range expansion compared to pricier models, it delivers solid performance, durability, and ease of use in a compact package, making it a great choice for climbers dipping their toes into the world of traditional climbing protection.

Key Features

• Ultralight Design: Constructed with Metolius’ composite cable technology, which keeps the cam light enough for alpine missions or weight-conscious climbers. Weighs only 2.4 ounces.
• Optimized Lobe Shape: Features a lobed design that maximizes surface area contact with rock, improving holding power and reducing crack damage in soft sandstone and similar materials.
• Range Finder Markings: Clear color-coded placements on the lobes help beginners gauge whether they are setting cams in the optimal range, reducing the risk of placement errors.
• Flexible Single Stem: Offers versatility, allowing for safe placements in vertical or horizontal cracks while maintaining a small profile for tighter fits.
• Durable Construction: Anodized aluminum lobes and durable steel cabling ensure long-term performance even with regular use.

Why Did We Pick It

When evaluating cams for beginners, we looked for devices that would inspire confidence in climbers still learning the nuances of traditional protection. The Metolius Ultralight Master Cam Purple excels in this regard. With a 7/10 score for “Holding Power” and 9/10 for “Ease of Placement”, this cam is intuitive to use and dependable across various rock types. Its lighter weight (scoring a 9/10 in “Weight”) also stands out for climbers wanting to keep their rack manageable without sacrificing performance.

Metolius has designed this cam with features that directly address the needs of newer climbers. Features like the range finder markings simplify the often-daunting process of determining if a placement is secure. During testing, we found it particularly easy to place this cam in mid-sized cracks, making it a great tool for those still learning to identify “bomber” placements.

Real-world performance confirmed its beginner-friendly reputation. On single-pitch trad routes, this cam offered dependable holding power in typical crack climbing scenarios while also removing the stress associated with unwieldy or complicated gear. Though its range may require carrying a few extra cams for larger crack systems, the ease of placement and ultralight build helped offset that slight drawback. For anyone starting their journey in trad climbing, the Ultralight Master Cam Purple provides the reliability and simplicity needed to build skills with confidence.

Who It’s For

Overall, the Metolius Ultralight Master Cam Purple is a solid entry-level cam for climbers beginning to explore traditional protection. With its lightweight yet durable design and beginner-friendly features, it’s a standout performer in its price range. For those venturing into the world of trad climbing or simply looking to add an affordable yet reliable piece to their gear arsenal, this cam earns high praise.

The Totem Cam 5 is a masterpiece of engineering that punches far above its weight—literally. Known for its affordability relative to its innovative design and high performance, this cam has found a sweet spot between quality and practicality. With a focus on durability, lightweight convenience, and unparalleled holding power, the Totem Cam 5 has quickly become a favorite for climbers tackling big objectives while trying to minimize weight. Whether you’re threading through sketchy cracks or protecting in delicate, flared placements, this cam rises to the challenge with remarkable ease.

Key Features

• Dual-Stem Technology: This design provides unique loading options, increasing holding power in less-than-perfect placements. Perfect for irregular cracks or subtle flares.
• Independently Flexible Lobes: Unlike standard cams, each lobe adjusts independently to match rock contours, making it reliable in shallow or oddly-shaped placements.
• Optimized Weight-to-Strength Ratio: Weighing only 132 grams, the Totem Cam 5 offers the strength of heavier cams while shaving precious ounces off your rack.
• Wide Holding Surface: The cam lobes have an increased surface area, creating more friction and preventing slippage—a crucial feature for protection in smoother rock.
• Highly Durable Build: Constructed with a focus on resilience, it received an impressive durability rating of 9 during testing, ensuring it stands up to repeated use in demanding conditions.

Why Did We Pick It

When we say the Totem Cam 5 is a standout for lightweight climbs, we mean it quite literally. This cam delivers best-in-class holding power—earning a perfect 10 in testing—making it an invaluable tool when you’re pushing your limits on technical routes. But there’s more than just numbers backing this powerhouse. Thanks to its dual-stem technology, it excels in real-world scenarios where cracks are less than ideal. While some cams struggle in flared or irregular placements, the Totem’s independent lobe system enables the cam to anchor itself reliably in spots that might intimidate lesser gear.

Durability is another area where the Totem Cam excels, achieving a rating of 9 during testing. Picture this: You’re several pitches up a multi-day climb, the granite is unrelenting, and the last thing you want is to second-guess your gear. The Totem Cam can take repeated beatings and still perform like new, which is an immense confidence booster in challenging terrain. Climbers appreciate not just its toughness but also the peace of mind it provides when placements are tricky or shallow.

Finally, this cam’s ability to combine exceptional reliability with a lightweight, 132-gram design made it our top pick for this category. Sure, it earned slightly lower scores in range expansion (8) and ease of placement (7), but those trade-offs pale in comparison to its overall performance. For the ounce-conscious climber looking to reduce bulk on demanding lightweight adventures, the Totem Cam 5 checks all the right boxes without compromising safety or functionality.

Who It’s For

The Black Diamond Camalot Z4 0.5 delivers a powerful combination of affordability, performance, and quality—all packed into a sleek and versatile design. Designed to handle the challenges of wide cracks, this cam boasts reliable holding power and innovative flexibility that adapts effortlessly to a variety of placements. With a price point that balances value and performance, the Z4 series has earned its place as a top choice for trad climbers who demand durability and precision without breaking the bank. Whether you’re pushing your grade on big walls or aiming for more secure protection in tricky terrain, this cam is a worthy contender in any rack.

Key Features

• Rigid-flex stem technology: The stem remains stiff when retracted for secure placements but flexes under load to prevent walking—a game changer for protection in flaring or awkward cracks.
• Compact double-axle head: Provides confidence-inspiring stability and holding power while allowing for smooth placements in varying rock features.
• Sandblast-finished lobes: Enhanced friction on the cams ensures they grip exceptionally well, even in slick rock types like granite or sandstone.
• Ergonomic trigger system: Designed for intuitive handling, helping climbers make rapid, accurate gear placements when seconds matter.
• Lightweight construction: At just 85 grams for the 0.5 size, it keeps your rack efficient while reducing fatigue on extended pitches.

Why Did We Pick It

The Black Diamond Camalot Z4 0.5 stands out in a crowded marketplace for its versatility and innovation, particularly in dealing with wide cracks—a notoriously challenging category of trad protection. Its hybridized stem design, offering a balance between rigidity and flex, allows climbers to place it in irregular or inconsistent cracks with ease. The holding power, reflected here by an impressive score of 8, makes it a dependable choice on big walls and adventurous multi-pitch routes. The attention to detail, such as the sandblast-finished lobes, also ensures that the cam grips where others might fail, offering peace of mind in critical situations.

Testing revealed that the Z4’s ease of placement (rated 8) earned it high praise among experienced climbers. For wide cracks, where precise gear placement can save time and energy, this feature really shines. Its compact head design allowed for smooth placement without fumbling, even in less-than-ideal situations—making it an obvious choice for those seeking efficiency. Combine that with its lightweight build (also rated 8), and you’ve got a cam that reduces your rack’s overall weight while delivering maximum performance.

However, it’s important to note its moderate durability rating (rated at 6). This does not diminish the Z4’s overall utility, but climbers who regularly tackle long and rough terrain may need to inspect it for wear more frequently. Even so, its standout performance in crack protection earns it our top spot for the wide crack category—especially if you’re looking for confidence-inspiring placements that keep you moving upward instead of second-guessing your gear.

Who It’s For

The DMM Dragon Cam Red stands as a testament to innovation and reliability, offering exceptional quality at a reasonable price point. Engineered with alpine climbing in mind, this cam integrates user-centric features like a dual-axle design, hot-forged lobes, and extendable slings—all packed into a lightweight build. Balancing affordability with premium performance, the Dragon Cam has earned its spot as a go-to choice for high-mountain adventures where reliability and versatility are paramount.

Key Features

• Dual-Axle Design: The double-axle system enhances the Dragon’s range while providing a solid bite in various rock types. This design also makes retraction smoother, giving you confidence during critical placements.
• Hot-Forged Lobes: Built to maximize friction against rock, the meticulously forged lobes excel in both sandstone and granite. Their abrasion resistance also contributes to the cam’s longevity.
• Extendable Slings: Simplify your approach with built-in extendable Dyneema slings, reducing the need for alpine draws and keeping your kit lighter and more streamline.
• Color-Coded for Clarity: The iconic red finish ensures quick size identification—because speed matters when you’re hanging mid-route in a harsh alpine wind.
• Ergonomically Designed Thumb Loop: This allows for swift and secure placements, even when wearing gloves, making it ideal for cold, high-altitude conditions.

Why Did We Pick It

Some climbing gear makes you pause; the DMM Dragon Cam Red demands action. Earning high marks in categories like holding power (9/10) and ease of placement (9/10), this cam doesn’t just stick to the rock—it sticks to what climbers value most during alpine adventures: reliability, durability, and functionality. The Dragon Cam aced our alpine-specific testing by consistently delivering solid placements in unpredictable environments, where even the subtlest crevice becomes potential protection.

What really sets the DMM Dragon apart is its intelligent design—features like extendable slings and a dual-axle construction cater directly to the needs of weight-conscious alpine climbers. During testing, its reliability in both bomber cracks and suspect placements inspired confidence, especially when the weather shifted unpredictably. The integrated slings, which eliminate extra quickdraws, were a game-changer on long pitches where every gram counts.

Finally, this cam fills a critical niche for climbers venturing into high-altitude objectives. Its ability to perform equally well in everything from solid granite cracks to icy alpine chimneys ensures it holds up across varied terrain. Simply put, the Dragon Cam Red exists to be trusted when the stakes are as high as the summit.

Who It’s For